Not gray today
Wow, it's sunny out! Today is the first day I've seen the sun since I arrived in Berlin. A lot of that is because of the jetlag and clubbing; until Monday I was sleeping so late that I'd get up just as it was getting dark - around 4pm. But mostly, Berlin in the winter is very, very gray. I took some pictures of my neighborhood yesterday afternoon that look like they were shot in black and white, but really they were full spectrum.
Speaking of clubbing, there is so much good music here it's ridiculous. We haven't stayed out past 5 or 6am, which makes us big wusses by Berlin standards. Friday night we saw Ricardo Villalobos at Maria, a huge warehouse club that reminded me of the halcyon days of Drop Bass rave parties. Two chill rooms, a main and second stage, even a small separate room where a Japanese couple made spring rolls to order. While there, this kid Philip that we met at last year's Detroit Electronic Music Festival recognized Atom, and the next day he had us over for breakfast (at 4pm), and then took us on a tour of the city.
For dinner we ate at a place in Prenzlauer Berg, a neighborhood that reminds me of Wicker Park: used to be "edgy" but is now expensive and gentrified, selling cool as a commodity. (As opposed to my neighborhood, Friedrichshain - still kind of dirty, very cheap, lots of squats and clubs.) Anyway, Weinerei, the dinner place in Prenzlauer Berg, basically charges you 1 Euro when you arrive. With that, you can drink as many glasses of wine and eat from the excellent vegetarian communal dinner they prepare, and when you leave, you pay what you felt you owe. Something like that would never work in the US, but they seem to be doing really well here.
After dinner we went to a long-running squat party, which was packed, and then to see Ellen Allien DJ. She didn't play as well as I've seen her previously, though she seemed to be having some equipment problems. Unfortunately, I didn't know that Baby Ford was playing that night as well, otherwise we would have gone to see him, but Philip told us how to find all of the good techno events so I'm not missing anything else unless by choice.
On Monday we got up early (10am) and headed to Potsdamer Platz to get tickets for the Berlin Film Festival, which started the day we arrived. Specifically, we wanted tickets for the world premiere of V is for Vendetta; after standing in line for an hour, we got them! The screening was at 10:30pm, and we arrived right when Natalie Portman did; I stood about 10 feet from her on the red carpet. Hilarious.
The movie itself was pretty good. Very Hollywood, but well-made. It hit you over the head with some way to overt symbolism, but I was entertained, and it made some good points. Afterwards we missed the last train (they stop running at 1:30am here except on weekends, when they run all night), which gave me an excuse to photograph the empty station. It made me recall the Ghost Stations that existed here when the wall was up; it's strange to think that was all not so long ago. I live in an area that was formerly East Berlin, and walking around, it's difficult to forget that so much has happened here.
Comments
I'm curious why you're skeptical that Weinerei would work in the States?
I'm not necessarially challenging you, just curious on your train of thought there.
Posted by: Aidan | February 15, 2006 11:13 AM
Sorry for all the questions... it's just very interesting to view Berlin thru your eyes!
That said, what is the general perception of gentrification among Berliners? Do the locals think it's a bad thing or, as in England, it's considered to be a very good thing.
From what I understand, in England (and presumably in Germany) there are far reaching social support functions that help to mitigate displacement due to gentrification.
So when you say that Prenzlauerberg is now expensive and gentrified, is that a bad thing?
Posted by: Aidan | February 15, 2006 11:27 AM
No worries on all the questions! I didn't mean to imply judgement with my statement on gentrification. Gentrification is an issue I have struggled with, gone back and forth on, all my life. At this point, I'm kind of ok with it, but that's a whole nother discussion.
As for the locals, it really depends on who you talk to. Anarchist squat punks would tell you they hate it, but there are plenty of other people who enjoy having nice shopping and restaurant districts.
Posted by: j3s | February 17, 2006 03:28 PM