Long way to go

When I moved into my hut last week I strung up some twine and hung up all of my clothes, really felt nice to settle in. However, staring at my clothesline is a bit depressing: everything is black. Or gray, maybe dark blue. You can tell I packed in NYC in deep January.

Somehow I also managed to forget to bring any of the clothes I bought in India last year, so most of my stuff is unsuited for here (read: way too hot). I don't really want to shop much; anything I buy I have to carry for the next three months. However, something had to be done.

So I've slowly purchased a few items: chartreuse harem pants, a bright orange dress that can double as a skirt, a yellow and gold sarong. Notice a theme? Dark colors just don't feel right here when everything is so vibrant. Or maybe that's just the hippies starting to rub off on me. I am going to a sunset drum circle tonight...

Posted by j3s at 11:12 AM | Permalink

I've been in Arambol, Goa, for a week now, and feel like I can finally write a little bit about it. I've had so many conversations about how it takes at least that long to really feel like you're really here. Last year Zev laughed about watching various friends arrive from New York, and how it took so many days for them to settle down, lose that "where are we going now what do we do next" feeling. I think I'm starting to let it go.

My first three nights I spent in a guesthouse, like a small hotel. On the third day I met a German girl, Bea, who had a sweet hut on the beach, in the 2 Pac encampment. Everything here has a name; 2 Pac is in between Green Garden, Orange Sky, and Blue Pyramid (no, they're not all color-based). So I moved into hut life, where I've been enjoying the company of some great neighbors.

Monday morning I started the Ashtanga yoga class that I loved so much last year, been going every day from 9-11am. It's kicking my ass but in a good way, and the teacher remembered me, which is nice. Afterward I usually have my favorite breakfast in town (fruit muesli curd honey) before walking back 15 minutes down the beach to my hut. By the time I get back the heat of the day has set in, so I walk 50 feet from my front porch and swim in the ocean for a bit. It may be psychosomatic, but I feel like soaking in the sea helps with the extremely sore muscles I'm experiencing.

I must say a word on my language; I can tell that my English is already going to shit, as it tends to do when I travel. Talking to so many people from other places I tend to simplify things, drop articles, stuff like that. So it probably seeps into my writing too, but I don't mind so much.

Anyway, I'm settling into a nice little routine, yoga > breakfast > beach > writing > sunset > dinner. Lots of hanging out in cafes, sipping chai, staring at the sea. Somehow a whole week goes by, doing what seems like nothing much.

The theme of this place seems to be, for me, "maybe tomorrow." It took three days just to get myself to work on photos and upload them to my photolog, though it doesn't help that the internet doesn't work very well, when it works at all. Anyway, I finally got my first batch posted, check them out!

Posted by j3s at 12:35 PM | Permalink

When I lived in Berlin five years ago, I asked a French friend who lived there as well why he had left Paris. Exhaling a long drag off his Gauloises, he explained that "Paris is a dying whore." At the time, I kind of got it.

However, my visit last week changed my mind. It was my third time there, so I didn't feel such need to run around and see everything. And after so much touristy stuff in Rome I kind of needed a break. Perhaps the more relaxed approach contributed to my increased enjoyment, or maybe the city is on the upswing. It sure felt that way, and I'm not just saying that because of all the beautiful people in the clubs and cafes.

Or maybe it was the sheer familiarity. When I was younger I never understood why people would want to return to a place they've already been; it's such a big world and a short life, why see repeats? But in the last decade I've grown to really appreciate returning to some of the same places, the comfort in foreign cities that are almost just like I remembered them.

And I have my Paris rituals: walking to the top of Montmartre on the first night, eating my favorite pho in the world (I haven't made it to Vietnam yet), Shakespeare & Co., ...ah crap, I just realized I missed one of my favorite rituals: drinking a bottle of Chateau Neuf du Pape by the Seine. Guess it was a bit cold out for that.

As stated, I didn't do much touristy stuff this time. I went because my best friend was working there for two weeks and had a hotel room, might as well go chill there since I had to cancel my ticket to Cairo. (Were I ten years younger and still a bit reckless, I probably would have gone, despite the uprising.) I did manage a few Parisian excursions though: the Musee d'Orsay, the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise (where I did not make it to Jim Morrisson's grave--never was a big Doors fan anyway--but I saw Colette's!), Notre Dame, and finally the Catacombs. This was my third attempt to make it to the catacombs, and I'm glad I finally made it (i.e., had the patience to wait in line). They really were quite amazing. To think that so much of the city has tunnels and bones underneath, it's rather boggling.

I must also say that travel in the age of Facebook is pretty sweet. I posted something about being in Paris and a friend who lives there contacted me (Hi, Emilie!), so it was a nice surprise to get to hang with her. Plus an old friend from the Netherlands, Frank, who I hadn't seen in five years came to town to hang out on Saturday as well, which ruled.

Also, I love the Metro. It's one of my top three public transportation systems in the world (no one can beat NYC, if for no other reason than the 24-hour thing, and express trains). Plus I had "Riding on the Metro" in my head for a week, how great is that?

Posted by j3s at 01:23 PM | Permalink

I made it to goa, finally! Got to the hotel at 5am, slept till 1130am. Had a nice lunch by the beach, then went for swim in the ocean. I finally feel like I am where i left the states to be.

The place I'm staying is pretty bare-bones: no towel or toilet paper, but there's actually hot water, which is nice. And I have a balcony! I thought I wanted my own hut like last year, but the cement building stays much more cool. And did I mention the balcony? Pictures are forthcoming; for now, some from last year provide an idea.

I'll post some stuff about Paris in the next couple days; it feels a hundred years away from here but the documentation obsession in me feels the need for some level of completion. As for now I'm off to walk to town, maybe have another chai and watch the sunset. Oh, and buy some TP.

Posted by j3s at 12:46 PM | Permalink

I'm somewhere in the middle of a 16-hour layover in Doha, Qatar. Got in from Paris at 5am and my flight to India's not till 9pm, whoops. I tried to arrange a day tour of the city before I came, but everything I found required a minimum of two people. In retrospect I probably should have booked a hotel and gotten an exit visa, but at least I have a lot of movies on my new netbook.

I did manage to grab maybe three hours of sleep in one of the quiet lounges before being woken up by a call to prayer; the mosque is right next to the sleeping lounge. Now I'm catching up on emails and photos and drinking too much coffee and bottled water purchased with my credit card because I don't want to change dollars to riyals.

The euro segment of this trip was definitely fun, but I'm ready to get along to India. I kinda want to park it for a bit in Arambol (Goa), where my only responsibility is a 2.5-hour Ashtanga class at 9am, and maybe some writing and beach time in the afternoon. How many hours are left in this layover...?

Posted by j3s at 01:48 PM | Permalink

To finish the Rome wrap-up:

-- The food ranged from sublime fresh mozzarella and gnocchi I've ever eaten to the most joyless pizza I've eaten in my life. The best pizza we had was near Piazza de Argentina, the type of place where you pay by the weight of the slice and they cut it with scissors for you. Once my sister left I ate every meal at or from an old man cafe (getting into cheapo depot mode), which meant nothing but pizza and panini. Oh, and delicious cappuccinos. The gelato was of course wonderful, though I abstained from consuming any pastries in anticipation of Paris, where I have averaged one croissant per day since arrival.

-- I consider myself a life-long champion jaywalker, but Rome was some next level shit when it comes to traffic. I felt like I was taking my life into my own hands every time I crossed the street. When I getting ready to dart out between cars I'd hear my former boss's advice echoing between ears: "Better. Not. To die."

-- We stayed at a bed & breakfast in Trastevere which I chose basically because of its name: Rome Nice Room (Hi, Lauren!). Not a misnomer at all; the owners were ridiculously nice, good location, huge beautiful rooms. You could definitely find something cheaper in the city center, but everyone I asked told me to stay in Trastevere, which was a lovely neighborhood, not too touristy.

-- I kept having the refrain from "Once in a Lifetime" in my head because reminders of how water/aqueducts made the city possible were omnipresent. Many corners had spigots that were always flowing, though I never drank from any of them (can't say I didn't consider it...).

-- As is my habit, I printed out some essential phrases in Italian before I left since I don't speak the language. However, I found that knowing some French and Spanish was enough to kind of maneuver my way through basic conversations in Italian, which was a pleasant surprise.

-- One of my favorite places was the Keats/Shelley memorial house, which was right next to the Spanish steps, though I may just be saying that because I'm a poet. It felt rather hallowed to sit in the room where Keats died, and it was the one place I went in Rome where there was absolutely no one else around. Though the noise from the steps next door was quite audible, it didn't permeate the peacefulness of the place.

-- I had a really great time being there with my sister. We've never before travelled together, so it was so nice to find out that we are extremely compatible: wanted to see and eat the same things, avoid the same places, take the same pictures, got tired at the same time, never got on each others' nerves. And oh boy, did hanging out with her bring out my puntastic side.

-- I went into several churches and didn't burst into flame!

The remainder of the Rome photos are here and here.

Posted by j3s at 05:11 PM | Permalink

So, Rome, where to begin? As lovely as it was to be constantly surrounded by beautiful old buildings and ruins like you see in textbooks, to eat nothing but carbs and cheese, and to walk everywhere for ten hours a day (ouch, cobblestone shin tension: I had forgotten about you), after five days I was fairly ready to move on to the next place.

The sense of antiquity is ubiquitous. Everything seems to be made out of marble, and everywhere you turn there's another monument to some emperor, family, or pope. It's a cool feeling but after a while can be overwhelming. By our seventh hour of exploration Saturday, my sister would point to something and ask what it was; my reply by then had deteriorated into "Another famous something."

Never have I walked everywhere with a map in my hand. I don't like feeling like a conspicuous tourist, but in most parts of Rome we went it seemed that everyone was consulting one. With good reason: it's easy to get lost when you're not paying attention--and even when you are. Kay and I both have great senses of direction, but the streets change names from one block to the next and never seem to go straight. We got lost only twice (once trying to find the Colosseum, how do you manage that?), but found our way eventually.

However, it was so worth it! The Pantheon, Colosseum, Forum, Vatican, St. Peter's Basilica, numerous churches, Spanish steps, Trevi fountain, and tons of other stuff I'm forgetting in the jumble of it all.

I've been told that everyone finds something to move them in Rome. For me it was the Sistine Chapel at the Vatican museum. I really didn't expect it to be so powerful, but I literally had tears streaming down my face the whole time I was inside. You're not allowed to take photos in the chapel, but I took enough other shots in the rest of the museum.

More pictures from the Vatican museum

The other majorly impressive thing was of course, the Colosseum. Kay had to fly back to London Sunday evening, but since we got lost en route we didn't have time to go inside, only to do a lap around the outside. However, I went back the next day by myself and went in; coincidentally it was the day after the Superbowl, which I found amusing. In the age of disposable stadiums, it's clear that the Romans really built things to last.

More pictures from the Colosseum and surrounding ruins

That's enough on Rome for now (I'm getting tired again just writing about it!), though I'll post some additional thoughts and photos tomorrow.

Posted by j3s at 05:53 PM | Permalink

As I've been to London on multiple other occasions and it's rather expensive for someone who just left her job, I only gave myself a couple nights there. Plus, my primary focus was to visit my sister, and she was coming to Rome with me anyway.

Unfortunately my flight out of JFK Tuesday evening was cancelled due to (non-existent) snow, and the next one wasn't until 24 hours later, so I didn't even have a full day in London. After not sleeping on the overnight flight I arrived at my friend Kris's house around 9am, thoroughly beat. I let myself nap for a couple hours, waking up at noon on the dot without an alarm clock, and spent the afternoon catching up with Kris; I hadn't seen him in almost five years.

After that it was time to go meet my sister Kay at her dorm, where I delivered all the American imports she'd requested. Why yes, that is a four-pound tub of peanut butter.

By then I was famished, so we went out for a pint and (what else? but) fish & chips at a nearby pub in Chelsea. I don't like fried food--working a fryer in college scarred me for life--but man, I can get down on some fish minus the chips (hate potatoes too), which my sister happily consumed on my behalf.

Kay's taking a class on contemporary theater, so I went to see a show with her, Vernon God Little. It was adapted from a book that my boyfriend really enjoyed, but neither my sister nor I really liked the play. In fact, it made us squirm a bit, kind of like, "We can make fun of Texas but you Brits can't!" However, I thought the set design was fantastic (though not reflected so well in the following intermission shot).

After the show I was pretty beat, rode the tube back to Kris's to sleep...

...until it was time to wake up and fly to Rome, much too early in the morning. London, short but fun though mostly unconscious. The rest of the photos I took, all three of them, are here, but don't fret: I more than made up for the quantity in Rome.

Posted by j3s at 07:41 PM | Permalink

Over the years I've jokingly referred to this site as my "Hey, I'm not dead!" blog, which made me feel just the tiniest bit bad when I let the domain name lapse right before leaving the country for almost four months. Whoops.

It's all fixed now though, so I can tell you that I have made it safely to Paris, the third leg of my RTW (round the world) trip. The itinerary is as follows:

-- London, to visit my sister, who is studying abroad. I was supposed to have two days there, but because my initial flight got cancelled, I only had one.

-- Rome for for four days. The only other place I've been in Italy was Venice in 2001 (pictures from that trip), so this was a giant CHECK. I'll post a lot more on Rome in the next day or two.

-- Paris for almost a week. My original RTW ticket had me going to Cairo , where I was to stay with my (Egyptian) roommate's brother, but I cancelled that leg of the trip last week due to the civil unrest. If I were ten years younger and more reckless I'd really want to go to experience the uprising, but I have too many people that I love worrying about me already.

-- Possible stop: Doha, Qatar, for a day. I have a 16-hour layover on my way to Goa, so I might get a vis on arrival and check out the city. We'll see.

-- India for two months. I spent three weeks there a year ago and loved it! My first stop is Goa, specifically Arambol, to study with a yoga teacher I really liked, and then who knows, maybe Rajasthan and Dharmasala? I'm meeting up with a friend who is coincidentally travelling there as well, so it'll be nice to have some company.

-- Thailand and Vietnam (and maybe Cambodia) for a month. I have a couple friends who go there in the spring when they're done working in Singapore, so hopefully I'll get to travel with them for a bit, too.

-- Hong Kong for four days, where I plan to stay with an old rave buddy from Wisconsin who's been living there for some years.

That's it for now. I'm staying in a really cute neighborhood in Paris with Atomly, who is here for work. Last time I was here (2006) was also with him, funny how that works. The neighborhood is really cute, 3rd arrondissement near Parmentier, but I'm a bit exhausted from all the travel and walking 8 hours a day in Rome, so I'm taking it easy today.

It's starting to sink in a bit that I quit my job, and my time belongs to me again. Last time I did that was the year I lived in Berlin, and I really miss being able to spend whole afternoons writing, sitting in cafes, exploring the city. Here we go!

Posted by j3s at 02:30 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)