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Paris is no longer a dying whore

When I lived in Berlin five years ago, I asked a French friend who lived there as well why he had left Paris. Exhaling a long drag off his Gauloises, he explained that "Paris is a dying whore." At the time, I kind of got it.

However, my visit last week changed my mind. It was my third time there, so I didn't feel such need to run around and see everything. And after so much touristy stuff in Rome I kind of needed a break. Perhaps the more relaxed approach contributed to my increased enjoyment, or maybe the city is on the upswing. It sure felt that way, and I'm not just saying that because of all the beautiful people in the clubs and cafes.

Or maybe it was the sheer familiarity. When I was younger I never understood why people would want to return to a place they've already been; it's such a big world and a short life, why see repeats? But in the last decade I've grown to really appreciate returning to some of the same places, the comfort in foreign cities that are almost just like I remembered them.

And I have my Paris rituals: walking to the top of Montmartre on the first night, eating my favorite pho in the world (I haven't made it to Vietnam yet), Shakespeare & Co., ...ah crap, I just realized I missed one of my favorite rituals: drinking a bottle of Chateau Neuf du Pape by the Seine. Guess it was a bit cold out for that.

As stated, I didn't do much touristy stuff this time. I went because my best friend was working there for two weeks and had a hotel room, might as well go chill there since I had to cancel my ticket to Cairo. (Were I ten years younger and still a bit reckless, I probably would have gone, despite the uprising.) I did manage a few Parisian excursions though: the Musee d'Orsay, the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise (where I did not make it to Jim Morrisson's grave--never was a big Doors fan anyway--but I saw Colette's!), Notre Dame, and finally the Catacombs. This was my third attempt to make it to the catacombs, and I'm glad I finally made it (i.e., had the patience to wait in line). They really were quite amazing. To think that so much of the city has tunnels and bones underneath, it's rather boggling.

I must also say that travel in the age of Facebook is pretty sweet. I posted something about being in Paris and a friend who lives there contacted me (Hi, Emilie!), so it was a nice surprise to get to hang with her. Plus an old friend from the Netherlands, Frank, who I hadn't seen in five years came to town to hang out on Saturday as well, which ruled.

Also, I love the Metro. It's one of my top three public transportation systems in the world (no one can beat NYC, if for no other reason than the 24-hour thing, and express trains). Plus I had "Riding on the Metro" in my head for a week, how great is that?