Diving into the Ganges
Though I had a bit of a rough landing, I'm really enjoying my time in Rishikesh. The Ganges flows so green and cold and clean, through Himalayan foothills that echo silence. Whoa, this place must be getting to me.
I crossed the suspension pedestrian bridge exhausted, dehydrated (I don't drink much water on bus rides because there are no bathrooms on board), and schlepping my backpack into Laxsman Jhula, the part of Rishikesh in which I wanted to stay.
Unfortunately everyone else wanted to stay there too, because every place we checked was fully booked. I had met some Eterians and Swedes on the bus ride, we were all looking for lodging together. Finally I found a really crappy room at some place next to the Jeep stand (such loud honking all day), but took it because I was so tired and needed a shower. Not only did I have a bad sleep there, but the next morning I woke to find my feet covered in flea bites, ugh.
So I had them spray the room with something extremely carcinogenic I'm sure and set out to find a better place. I managed to within an hour: Dharm Yatri Niwas. Not only does the room not have bugs, but it also has a big dresser, nightstand, table, chair, and half-length mirror. Luxury! As soon as I checked in I gave them all my clothes for laundry and scrubbed myself clean. My feet still itch like hell, but I can sleep at night and not get bitten (or woken by a thousand horns in the night).
The rest of Rishikesh has been great: sunset every day on the small beach watching the orange ball set over the river, hanging out with the crew that I met on the bus, taking a yoga class in which I was the only student.
Whitewater rafting is big here too, so yesterday I went on a 4-hour trip down the Ganges (cost: about $8). I even got to cliffjump into the river! I do love jumping off high spots (see: bungy jumping and skydiving). It was cold but not bracing; I felt refreshed. Maybe the river has healing properties, after all.
This will be my last post for a week; in a few hours I'm heading out to spend a week at an ashram 5km outside of Rishikesh. I hadn't really planned on going to an ashram while here but it feels right, I have the time, why not? Otherwise I could go meet Ami and Jonathan in Punjab; they have comped tickets to the India Pakistan World Cup cricket match and a free place for me to stay, but no matter how many times people explain that game to me I just can't get interested.
The ashram's daily schedule is somewhat intense, but I'm feeling up for it. I've been practicing yoga for 14 years and meditation for a while as well, but I could use the discipline and guidance provided by a week-long course. I'm only vaguely dreading the 5am wake-up time, so I might actually be ready for this. Only one way to find out...